Safety instructions (important!!)

Improper installation, usage, and service can cause severe damage to the wheels and pose a hazardous condition for the rider. To ensure a reliable riding experience with Light Bicycle products, please read and follow these instructions. Even if you have been riding or building wheels for years, the instructions and suggestions are specific to Light Bicycle carbon products and you should be mindful of them before your first ride or wheel building. If in any doubt, feel free to contact us at sales@lightbicycle.com or leave a comment on any page of our site.

1. Special tools and basic knowledge of handling the bicycle and wheels are required for installation and maintenance. If in doubt, please consult a reliable wheel builder or get in touch with us.

2. The rim/wheelset must be compatible with other parts of the bicycle including the tires, fork, axles, and cassette. Incompatibility can cause poor performance and potentially damage the wheels or frame/fork.

3. We design and test your wheels for specific riding purposes. Unfit usage can shorten the product’s life and even cause a wheel to crack, causing injuries to the rider. Be sure that you’ve purchased the correct product for the job.

4. Use your hands to install the tires if you can. Re-insert the tire into the deepest part of the rim over and over again to create enough slack. If you must use a tire lever, use plastic. DO NOT use a metal tire lever as it will permanently damage the rim.

5. Be watchful of the hazards in riding (potholes, debris, railway tracks, etc). These can cause a big crash resulting in severe injuries.

6. After an excessive impact or crash, there may not be an immediate sign of failure. Please wipe down the rim, and even remove the tire for inspection, and report any potentially severe damage back to us.

7. Rim brake customers - Check your rim brake pads regularly for pollutants like metal flakes and stones that can ruin the brake track. DO NOT use pads with significant wear.

8. DO NOT overheat the wheels. High temperatures can occur in bike transport when a wheel is placed next to the exhaust fumes from an automobile. Overheating of the rims will void the warranty as it damages the composite structure.

9. Regularly inspect the wheels and watch out for any signs of cracks, scratches, dents, delaminations, or discoloration which could indicate that the wheels may need to be replaced or serviced. If in doubt, please contact us.

Four important notes to make your wheel building easier

(1) Make sure your new rim(s) are built by a certified or experienced carbon wheel builder.

A professional carbon wheel builder will use a tension meter and ensure that the wheels are built with very even tension and with stress properly relieved.

(2) Follow the spoke direction shown on a small arrow sticker.

The rims have angled nipple holes that alternate left/right/left. Please lace spokes in the correct direction to avoid hole damage. The arrow sticker is attached near the valve hole.

(3) On asymmetric wheel building.

For asymmetric rims, you need to distinguish their shorter and longer arcs. When viewing from the rim channel, it's easiest to find the shorter side and longer side by looking at the valve hole in relation to the nipple holes. Another way to decide is via the serial number label. Place the rim sideways vertically in front of you, locate the serial number label, and flip the rim if needed to put the label right side up. View the rim from the center channel: the upper part is the shorter arc, and the lower part is the longer.

Please make sure the rim is in the correct orientation - different for front and rear wheels!
Front Wheels: the shorter arc for the drive side, the longer arc for the non-drive (disc) side
Rear Wheels: the longer arc for the drive side, the shorter arc for the non-drive (disc) side

(4) Build the wheelset with proper spoke tensions.

Bring the spokes to an even tension with a maximum tolerance of 5% for all drive and all non-drive sides. For the recommended spoke tensions, please refer to the following chart.

*It is better to make sure the max spoke tension is less than 135kgf in wheel building.

Berd spoke FAQ’s on building and technical info

1. Do you need to modify the hubs?

We don’t need to modify straight pull hubs in most cases as we use a special Tangential Straight Pull Insert to prevent abrasion where the spoke exits the hub. For J-bend hubs, we do modify the hubs by slightly rounding out the hole openings. Hub manufacturers are unlikely to recommend the use of metal spokes after this modification, so by choosing Berd spokes and J-bend hubs you are making a commitment for the lifetime of the hub.

2. How do I replace a spoke?

You will need Berd specific tools to replace a spoke. These include an external nipple wrench, a Berd spoke holding tool, an awl for opening loops of spokes, the spoke pulling tool and a wire loop for feeding the spoke through the hub. A traditional nipple wrench will not work as the spoke must be held to prevent twisting.

If replacing straight pull insert, you will also need an insert pushing tool to push inserts on heads of the spoke.

If you’re ever unsure about how to replace a spoke or need to purchase these tools, please contact our team at support@lightbicycle.com.

3. Can I use a steel spoke as a replacement?

It is best to replace a broken Berd spoke with a Berd spare as steel spokes behave much differently with the forces of riding. In the unlikely event that you do break a spoke when riding, you should be able to finish your ride gently before replacing the spoke.

4. Are the spoke lengths the same as metal spokes?

No. Due to the nature of the fibers of Berd spokes and how they affix to hubs, spoke lengths are different than with steel spokes. We’re happy to help with spoke length calculations.

5. What if I drop a chain into the spokes?

If a chain drops into your Berd spokes, it can usually be carefully removed without damage to the spokes. If the chain is badly stuck in behind the cassette, it would likely be safer to remove the cassette. We suggest taking extra care in adjusting the limit screws on your derailleur to prevent the chain from coming off into the spokes.

6. How do you connect Berd spokes to a rim?

With the 2mm threaded steel spoke bonded to top, Berd spokes connect to the rim the same way as a conventional spoke. To make tightening easier with the stretch of the spokes, exclusively double square nipples Double Square Sapim Secure Lock nipples are used.

7. What is the final tension of Berd Spokes?

The final tension of Berd Spokes is 78kg/f on the high tension side of the wheel. On a correctly calibrated Park Tools TM-1 gauge it should read 12. While tension could safely be between 10 to 14 on this gauge, the more important thing is that it’s consistent between the spokes.

As a general rule, mountain wheels that are broken in should be brought back up to 11-12, and road disc wheels can be a bit lower (10 is acceptable). Tension on Berd spokes can drop over time, so check regularly if additional tension is needed.

8. How to properly measure the tension of Berd Spokes?

As Berd spokes are not perfectly round, reading tension properly takes care. Be sure to move the gauge in a few places and at different angles to get a consistent reading. Ensure you’re placing the gauge in the middle of the spoke so there’s even distance between the gauge and the rim and the gauge and the hub.

9. Does my Berd wheelset need any special maintenance?

Berd spokes offer impressive performance, but due to the bedding-in process of the fibers the wheels can lose up to 30% of their initial tension after 3-6 months of riding (depending on usage). We recommend checking your spoke tension after 2-3 months and adjusting accordingly.

Adding tension will require a truing stand, a Park Tool TM-1 Tension Meter, the Berd Spoke Holding Tool (to stop spokes from twisting up) and the Berd External Nipple Tool.

To bring the tension back to the desired 70 KGF (12 on the Park Tool Meter) start by adding 2 full turns to each nipple, then check to make sure the tensions are still even. From here you may have to do some minor truing by turning the nipple on the opposite side of the affected area ⅛ - ¼ turns until the rim comes back to straight.

10. I’m building my own wheel with Berd spokes, what nipples should I use?

The best nipple to use with Berd spokes is a 16mm Double Square Sapim Secure Lock. The spokes will stretch as you build up tension and these nipples have ample space for thread engagement. They also resist loosening off, are corrosion resistant and very strong.

11. Do Berd Spokes come with a Warranty?

Berd offers a Limited Warranty on its spokes to be free from defects in material and workmanship, for the period of 5 years from the date of purchase. The final decision of whether the product is defective will be made by Berd. The Limited Warranty does not cover damages resulting from improper use, neglect, abuse, misuse, or alteration of the products.

How to tape a rim for tubeless setup (with video)?

Step 1 - Clean the entire rim bed with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry completely.

Step 2 - Place the rim vertically on a mat, get the valve stem hole at the top, and hold the rim between your legs.

Step 3 - Start taping the rim two holes away from the valve. Rotate the wheel forward and pull on the tape. Keep it tight!

Step 4 - Press firmly in the direction the tape was applied, followed by both edges of the tape to ensure a tight fit. If air bubbles are present, pull the tape up and redo that area.

Step 5 - Pass over the valve again by about 1cm and cut the tape.

Tech Notes: To get a good seal, choose a tape of proper width for your rim and keep it tight. Use two laps of tape if you are running pressures greater than 50psi or the tape is not wide enough. A poor seal may cause the inflated air to flow into the rim chamber and damage the rim. Try to install the tire without tire levers which may pinch the rim tape. Using thick tape can make tire mounting difficult. Reusing tape is not recommended.

How to install a valve stem on a taped rim?

Step 1 - Locate the valve hole.

Step 2 - Make a tiny “X” with a sharp utility knife for the valve to go through.

Step 3 - Prep the valve by removing the plastic cap, remove the collar and o-ring, then tighten down the small metal Presta valve.

Step 4 - Slowly twist the valve stem as you push it through the tape and into the valve hole.

Step 5 - Put the o-ring on, screw the collar onto the stem (with the concave base facing the o-ring), and ensure the collar is secure. You can push down on the rubber end with your thumb as you tighten the collar. The rubber base should mushroom out and seal the rim. Do not over-tighten the collar.

Is this helpful for you? Leave a comment if you have any questions.

How to choose rim graphics?

Light Bicycle offers four types of rim graphics to suit different styles and preferences: Stickers, Waterslide Decals, Laser-Engraved Graphics, and Nanobond Coating. Each option differs in durability, customization possibilities, and compatibility. The table below highlights the key differences to help you find the best fit for your rims.

How to install a removable sticker (with video)?

Please note that removable stickers are only available for our Falcon Pro (Road) and MTB rims online. Yet you can special order and customize rim stickers by email us (sales@lightbicycle.com).

Step 1 - Clean the rim with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry completely.

Step 2 - Locate the position to apply the sticker on the rim sidewall (90° from valve hole).

Step 3 - Pull the sticker off the backing and apply it from the outer diameter first, leaving a 1.5-2mm gap along the outer circumference of the rim. Smooth the sticker on with your finger across its length and work your way to the inner diameter.

Tech Notes: Use clean hands when installing stickers. To spot the 90° from the valve hole, count your spo ke holes and divide the number by four. For example, if you have a 32h rim, the 90° should be eight counts away from the valve hole. To place the sticker right at the 90° spot, gently fold the sticker in half to double-check the middle’s location. If there is a contaminant on the back of the sticker, place a drop of water on the spot to work the debris off. If there are air bubbles, gently lift the sticker to open the spot with the bubble and apply pressure to work it out.

Tips for effortless tire mounting (important!!)

#1 Tip - for clincher or tubeless. Put one side of the tire bead COMPLETELY into the deepest part of the center channel. You may need to go around the tire several times to re-adjust in order to get as much slack as you can. Then push the other side of the tire into the rim deep center and proceed from there. Always try to mount by hand before resorting to tire levers.

Before reaching out to us for more assistance, please double-check:

A) Recommended tire width of your rim?

B) Intended tire (Tubeless/Tubed)?

C) Too thick tubeless rim tape?

D) If your tire seems too tight, try a tubeless-ready tire as it has more consistent bead diameters.

#2 Tip - about the max tire pressure. Mind the max pressures set by the rim maker and the tire manufacturer and adhere to the lower limit. For hookless rims, DO NOT inflate the tire to high pressure, or it may result in the tire blowing off. It’s best to refer to our pressure recommendation charts.

#3 Tip - on using tire levers. Use your hands or a plastic tire lever. DO NOT use metal tire levers as they can damage the tape or even the rim.

How to mount a tight tire easily (with video)?

Installing road tires on tubeless compatible rims can seem like a challenging task, but the use of proper technique makes the job significantly easier. To learn the technique, we used to mount a Continental Gatorskin, a tire infamous for being a challenge to mount, without the use of tire levers, please have a look at the tutorial video on tight tire mounting.

If you are still having any problem with tire installation, it may be because you are using regular tires that are intended for use WITH tubes. Our rims are designed for tubeless tires and, as a result, the tolerances are a little bit tighter. Non-tubeless compatible tires usually have less consistent tolerances on the bead diameter so it is really hit and miss on how they will fit on a tubeless rim. Some might work, but generally, they will fit too tight and it will be a challenge to mount the tire. If that is the case, we recommend using a tubeless-compatible tire and you could still use a tube in those if you want.

How to set up a wheel tubeless (with video)?

Step 1 - Install the tubeless valve stem and tighten the collar for a good seal.

Step 2 - Mount one side of the tire bead onto the center channel of the rim.

Step 3 - Install the other side of the tire bead into the center channel.

*Install the sealant when you have ¾ of this side installed if you do not have an injection tool. Rotate the sealant into an area where both sides of the bead are installed before trying to finish popping the tire fully into the rim.

Step 4 - Inject the sealant through the valve stem (core removed).

Step 5 - Inflate the tire to push the beads outwards and upwards to the bead seat on either side of the center channel.

Step 6 - Spin the wheel to cover the inner tire wall with the sealant.

Tech Notes: double-check that your tires are tubeless compatible. Use only plastic if levers are necessary. For brand-new tires, use a tube and inflate the tire overnight to straighten it in case the foldings are too stiff. If the tire is quite tight, work the tire bead repeatedly into the deepest part of the rim and avoid using tire levers aggressively. Also, try lubricating the rim tape and tire beads with soapy water or sealant. To make tire bead installation easier, put either side of the tire bead completely into the deep center channel (ensure the gap space is smooth for mounting), then push the other side of the tire bead into the center channel. You will hear a sound as the beads snap into the bead seat. Refer to the instructions on the tubeless sealant packaging for amount suggestions.

Tubeless air leak: 4 common mistakes & how-to-fix

1st - The rim tape could be disturbed during tire mounting, usually from applying too much force with a tire lever. Remove the tire, clean, and retape the rim to form a good seal. To clean the rim, use isopropyl alcohol and let it dry completely before taping.

2nd - Your tires could be tubeless incompatible or too tight to get seated well on the rims.

3rd - Your valve stems are not seated adequately or they could be overtightened. Remove the valve to get a closer look and re-tape the rim if needed.

4th - There is not enough sealant. Inject more sealant through the valve or break the bead of the tire to pour more in and re-install the tire.

More details on tubeless air leaks and solutions.

Schwalbe tire mounting test

We want to ensure that our rim tolerances did not make mounting tires too much of a challenge, so we sent a number of rims to Schwalbe to be tested. Each one of them came back rated as "Simple, By Hand" when it came to mounting the tire. View the Schwalbe test report.

How to install a wheel with a grooved graphene track?

The grooves in the brake track help evacuate the moisture between pads and the brake track during rides in the wet and thus improve the braking performance - only when you attach the wheels to your bike in the right rotation direction, which is where the grooves curving outwards. See the illustration below.

User Manual - Rims & Spoked Wheels (PDF)

User Manual - Disc Wheels (PDF)

User Manual - Journey Frameset (PDF)

User Manual - Handlebar (PDF)