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Safety instructions (important!!)
Improper installation, usage, and service can cause severe
damage to the wheels and pose a hazardous condition for
the rider. To ensure a reliable riding experience with
Light Bicycle products, please read and follow these
instructions. Even if you have been riding or building
wheels for years, the instructions and suggestions are
specific to Light Bicycle carbon products and you should
be mindful of them before your first ride or wheel
building. If in any doubt, feel free to contact us at
or leave a comment on any page of our site.
1. Special tools and basic knowledge of handling the bicycle
and wheels are required for installation and
maintenance. If in doubt, please consult a reliable
wheel builder or get in touch with us.
2. The rim/wheelset must be compatible with other parts of
the bicycle including the tires, fork, axles, and
cassette. Incompatibility can cause poor performance and
potentially damage the wheels or frame/fork.
3. We design and test your wheels for specific riding
purposes. Unfit usage can shorten the product’s life and
even cause a wheel to crack, causing injuries to the
rider. Be sure that you’ve purchased the correct product
for the job.
4. Use your hands to install the tires if you can. Re-insert
the tire into the deepest part of the rim over and over
again to create enough slack. If you must use a tire
lever, use plastic. DO NOT use a metal tire lever as it
will permanently damage the rim.
5. Be watchful of the hazards in riding (potholes, debris,
railway tracks, etc). These can cause a big crash
resulting in severe injuries.
6. After an excessive impact or crash, there may not be an
immediate sign of failure. Please wipe down the rim, and
even remove the tire for inspection, and report any
potentially severe damage back to us.
7. Rim brake customers - Check your rim brake pads regularly
for pollutants like metal flakes and stones that can
ruin the brake track. DO NOT use pads with significant
8. DO NOT overheat the wheels. High temperatures can occur in
bike transport when a wheel is placed next to the
exhaust fumes from an automobile. Overheating of the
rims will void the warranty as it damages the composite
9. Regularly inspect the wheels and watch out for any signs
of cracks, scratches, dents, delaminations, or
discoloration which could indicate that the wheels may
need to be replaced or serviced. If in doubt, please
Four important notes to make your wheel
(1) Make sure your new rim(s) are built by a certified or
experienced carbon wheel builder.
A professional carbon wheel builder will use a tension
meter and ensure that the wheels are built with very
even tension and with stress properly relieved.
(2) Follow the spoke direction shown on a small arrow
The rims have angled nipple holes that alternate
left/right/left. Please lace spokes in the correct
direction to avoid hole damage. The arrow sticker is
attached near the valve hole.
(3) On asymmetric wheel building.
For asymmetric rims, you need to distinguish their
shorter and longer arcs. When viewing from the rim
channel, it's easiest to find the shorter side and
longer side by looking at the valve hole in relation to
the nipple holes. Another way to decide is via the
serial number label. Place the rim sideways vertically
in front of you, locate the serial number label, and
flip the rim if needed to put the label right side up.
View the rim from the center channel: the upper part is
the shorter arc, and the lower part is the longer.
Please make sure the rim is in the correct orientation -
different for front and rear wheels!
Front Wheels: the shorter arc for the drive side, the
longer arc for the non-drive (disc) side
Rear Wheels: the longer arc for the drive side, the
shorter arc for the non-drive (disc) side
(4) Build the wheelset with proper spoke tensions.
Bring the spokes to an even tension with a maximum
tolerance of 5% for all drive and all non-drive sides.
For the recommended spoke tensions, please refer to the
*It is better to make sure the max spoke tension is less than
135kgf in wheel building.
How to tape a rim for tubeless setup (with
Step 1 - Clean the entire rim bed with isopropyl alcohol and
let it dry completely.
Step 2 - Place the rim vertically on a mat, get the valve
stem hole at the top, and hold the rim between your
Step 3 - Start taping the rim two holes away from the valve.
Rotate the wheel forward and pull on the tape. Keep it
Step 4 - Press firmly in the direction the tape was applied,
followed by both edges of the tape to ensure a tight
fit. If air bubbles are present, pull the tape up and
redo that area.
Step 5 - Pass over the valve again by about 1cm and cut the
Tech Notes: To get a good seal, choose a tape of proper width
for your rim and keep it tight. Use two laps of tape if
you are running pressures greater than 50psi or the tape
is not wide enough. A poor seal may cause the inflated
air to flow into the rim chamber and damage the rim. Try
to install the tire without tire levers which may pinch
the rim tape. Using thick tape can make tire mounting
difficult. Reusing tape is not recommended.
How to install a valve stem on a taped rim?
Step 1 - Locate the valve hole.
Step 2 - Make a tiny “X” with a sharp utility knife for the
valve to go through.
Step 3 - Prep the valve by removing the plastic cap, remove
the collar and o-ring, then tighten down the small metal
Step 4 - Slowly twist the valve stem as you push it through
the tape and into the valve hole.
Step 5 - Put the o-ring on, screw the collar onto the stem
(with the concave base facing the o-ring), and ensure
the collar is secure. You can push down on the rubber
end with your thumb as you tighten the collar. The
rubber base should mushroom out and seal the rim. Do not
over-tighten the collar.
Is this helpful for you? Leave a comment if you have any
How to install a removable sticker (with
Please note that removable stickers are only available for
our Falcon Pro (Road) and MTB rims online. Yet you can
special order and customize rim stickers by email us
Step 1 - Clean the rim with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry
Step 2 - Locate the position to apply the sticker on the rim
sidewall (90° from valve hole).
Step 3 - Pull the sticker off the backing and apply it from
the outer diameter first, leaving a 1.5-2mm gap along
the outer circumference of the rim. Smooth the sticker
on with your finger across its length and work your way
to the inner diameter.
Tech Notes: Use clean hands when installing stickers. To spot
the 90° from the valve hole, count your spo ke holes and
divide the number by four. For example, if you have a
32h rim, the 90° should be eight counts away from the
valve hole. To place the sticker right at the 90° spot,
gently fold the sticker in half to double-check the
middle’s location. If there is a contaminant on the back
of the sticker, place a drop of water on the spot to
work the debris off. If there are air bubbles, gently
lift the sticker to open the spot with the bubble and
apply pressure to work it out.
Tips for effortless tire mounting
#1 Tip - for clincher or tubeless. Put one side of the tire
bead COMPLETELY into the deepest part of the center
channel. You may need to go around the tire several
times to re-adjust in order to get as much slack as you
can. Then push the other side of the tire into the rim
deep center and proceed from there. Always try to mount
by hand before resorting to tire levers.
Before reaching out to us for more assistance, please
A) Recommended tire width of your rim?
B) Intended tire (Tubeless/Tubed)?
C) Too thick tubeless rim tape?
D) If your tire seems too tight, try a tubeless-ready tire as
it has more consistent bead diameters.
#2 Tip - about the max tire pressure. Mind the max pressures
set by the rim maker and the tire manufacturer and
adhere to the lower limit. For hookless rims, DO NOT
inflate the tire to high pressure, or it may result in
the tire blowing off. It’s best to refer to our pressure recommendation charts.
#3 Tip - on using tire levers. Use your hands or a plastic
tire lever. DO NOT use metal tire levers as they can
damage the tape or even the rim.
How to mount a tight tire easily (with video)?
Installing road tires on tubeless compatible rims can seem
like a challenging task, but the use of proper technique
makes the job significantly easier. To learn the
technique, we used to mount a Continental Gatorskin, a
tire infamous for being a challenge to mount, without
the use of tire levers, please have a look at the
tutorial video on tight tire mounting.
If you are still having any problem with tire installation,
it may be because you are using regular tires that are
intended for use WITH tubes. Our rims are designed for
tubeless tires and, as a result, the tolerances are a
little bit tighter. Non-tubeless compatible tires
usually have less consistent tolerances on the bead
diameter so it is really hit and miss on how they will
fit on a tubeless rim. Some might work, but generally,
they will fit too tight and it will be a challenge to
mount the tire. If that is the case, we recommend using
a tubeless-compatible tire and you could still use a
tube in those if you want.
How to set up a wheel tubeless (with video)?
Step 1 - Install the tubeless valve stem and tighten the
collar for a good seal.
Step 2 - Mount one side of the tire bead onto the center
channel of the rim.
Step 3 - Install the other side of the tire bead into the
*Install the sealant when you have ¾ of this side installed
if you do not have an injection tool. Rotate the sealant
into an area where both sides of the bead are installed
before trying to finish popping the tire fully into the
Step 4 - Inject the sealant through the valve stem (core
Step 5 - Inflate the tire to push the beads outwards and
upwards to the bead seat on either side of the center
Step 6 - Spin the wheel to cover the inner tire wall with the
Tech Notes: double-check that your tires are tubeless
compatible. Use only plastic if levers are necessary.
For brand-new tires, use a tube and inflate the tire
overnight to straighten it in case the foldings are too
stiff. If the tire is quite tight, work the tire bead
repeatedly into the deepest part of the rim and avoid
using tire levers aggressively. Also, try lubricating
the rim tape and tire beads with soapy water or sealant.
To make tire bead installation easier, put either side
of the tire bead completely into the deep center channel
(ensure the gap space is smooth for mounting), then push
the other side of the tire bead into the center channel.
You will hear a sound as the beads snap into the bead
seat. Refer to the instructions on the tubeless sealant
packaging for amount suggestions.
Tubeless air leak: 4 common mistakes &
1st - The rim tape could be disturbed during tire mounting,
usually from applying too much force with a tire lever.
Remove the tire, clean, and retape the rim to form a
good seal. To clean the rim, use isopropyl alcohol and
let it dry completely before taping.
2nd - Your tires could be tubeless incompatible or too tight
to get seated well on the rims.
3rd - Your valve stems are not seated adequately or they
could be overtightened. Remove the valve to get a closer
look and re-tape the rim if needed.
4th - There is not enough sealant. Inject more sealant
through the valve or break the bead of the tire to pour
more in and re-install the tire.
More details on tubeless
air leaks and solutions.
Recommended tire pressures for
We have divided our rim models into three categories based on
their most common use: 1) smooth roads, 2) gravel/rough
roads, 3) mountain/plus/fat bike. Please refer to the
charts below based on your weight and the tire size to
find the right psi. Use the recommended psi as a
starting point and make small adjustments to better suit
Note that the maximum inflation pressure for AR-rims (except
AR24) is measured with 25c tubeless tires, and WR-rims
are with 28c tubeless tires. Do not exceed the max
pressure. If the recommended pressure is near or over
the max, it is suggested to move up in tire volume.
For more details, take several minutes to read our tubeless
Schwalbe tire mounting test
We want to ensure that our rim tolerances did not make mounting tires too much of a
challenge, so we sent a number of rims to Schwalbe to be tested. Each one of them came
back rated as "Simple, By Hand" when it came to mounting the tire. View the Schwalbe
How to install a wheel with a grooved graphene track?
The grooves in the brake track help evacuate the moisture between pads and the brake
track during rides in the wet and thus improve the braking performance - only when you
attach the wheels to your bike in the right rotation direction, which is where the
grooves curving outwards. See the illustration below.
User manual - Rims & Wheels (PDF)
I purchased a RECON rim RM29C15 Plus
Is the rim directional? I had a wheel builder assemble it and with the rim tape I can no longer see any directional arrows that have been on it ?
The RM29C15 is an symmetrical rim 29er plus with 3mm offset drilling holes. Meaning that there are no directional rules for the rim when you lace up the wheel. However, please remind your wheel builder to align the spokes along with the drilling angle (±5°).
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I have ordered a set of 29er Recon 928 32H that i will be lacing to DT350 hubs front and rear. I am after spoke length recommendation. I plugged the numbers into the DT swiss spoke calculator however i don't know how much the asymmetric rim shape will affect spoke length.
any guidance would be appreciated
You can use the lengths calculated by DT online calculator but if it's straight-pull spokes, the lengths might be slightly different. We can do the calculation for you if you want. What exact hubset and spokes that you want to build with?
Hi. I'm going to be building a wheelset with your 925XC rims. Light in front and standard in rear. I'm lacing them to I9 classic 6 bolt hubs. Boost 110 front and 148 rear dropout spacing. Can you help with spoke length calcs?
Front hub Flange Dia L = 58mm, R = 45. L Center to flange = 27mm, Right Center to flange = 42mm with 2.5mm hole
Right hub Flange Dia L=58mm, R = 25mm. Left center to flange= 38mm, Right Center to flange Diameter = 25mm.
Are the XC925 29er rims with 28h? Please confirm that the hub model Industry Nine Torch boost? If so, the flange diameter of the rear wheel should be 60mm on the disc/right side.
I just purchased a set of XC925 rims (one flyweight, one standard, 28H...Invoice #56742 from North American warehouse). I will be lacing them to DT SWISS 180 boost center lock hubs with Sapim CX-Ray Bladed spokes.
Can you tell me:
1. Recommended nipple size...I'm assuming 14mm?
2. Recommended spoke lengths for both drive and non-drive sides?
DT SWISS MTB 180 Straightpull Center Lock 15x110mm Thru Axle 28 Hole
DT SWISS MTB 180 Straightpull Center Lock 12x148mm Thru Axle 28 Hole
1. We use 14mm external nipples for wheelbuilding. You can choose Sapim double square nipples to match.
2. The spoke lengths are:
301mm for the drive side of the front-wheel, 85-95kgf, 300mm for the non-drive side of the front-wheel, 115-125kgf.
300mm for the drive side of the front-wheel, 115-125kgf, 301mm for the non-drive side of the front-wheel, 85-95kgf.
Hi, I just purchased some AM928 rims. What spoke nipple length do you recommend? Are standard 12mm OK? Thanks!
Normally, we use 14mm or 16mm nipples for wheelbuilding here.
What is the max possible pressure on WR50 hooked and hookless, I see your guide says 60 and 50psi, yet I have read people have gotten a different answer from your support.
So, what is the maximum recommended tire pressure on the WR50 wheels, both hooked and hookless.
Thanks in advance.
The recommend tire pressue used for hook WR50 road disc is 80psi, 50psi for hookless rim.
Check out more details on tire pressure recommendations from our tire pressure charts at https://www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/Tubeless-Tire-Pressure-Charts.html
I own AR36 rims with grooved graphene brake track. Which direction should the grooves face, with closed end or open end toward the direction of rotation?
You should be able to find an image on the User Guide we pack in the box for the grooved braking surface installation.
Here's the image in case you cannot find the User Guide. https://www.lightbicycle.com/images/support/wheel-rotation-direction20191112.jpg
I'm planning to order the following rims:
Can you recommend Sapim Poliax nipples?
Which washers do you recommend for this product?
Can you also recommend the following washers? Are they compatible with the rim?
1. We've used Sapim Polyax nipples for years now, they are great. However, the double square nipples are better for building, which is also the nipple option we go for nowadays.
2. We don't use the washers for all our wheel builds. Our bike rim spoke hole strength is strong enough. If you are after corrosion prevent, I think brass nipples would be a better choice. But, you can still use washers if you don't mind the weight adding. But I am sorry that I am not able to do recommendations for the washers since we don't have experience with this.
Hello, I currently have a gravel bike with quick release (QR) skewers. If I purchase a wheel set with QR, in the future can they be easily converted to thru axle if I get a different frame?
Normally, they are convertible. You just have to buy the convert kits from QR to 12*100mm/12*142mm.
Hello, my rims have arrived today. thank you
what spoke length and which nipples do I need?
I read that they can help with this problem.
https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Vfrontradnabe-350-Straightpull-Disc-6-Loch-15x100-mm- thru axle
650B EN740 28H centered matte UD
sincerely yours best regards
I am glad that the 650B rims arrive safe and sound. Of course, we can make the calculation of spoke lengths for you. The length is 276mm for both the drive side and the non-drive side of the front and wheel. Built with 3X lacing.
hello there I have a flyweight RM29C06 front wheel as my xc race wheel and am looking for another rim to build onto the rear. I race World Cup xc courses so they can be quite technical and I ride a full bus and am 73kg. would I get away with a flyweight for the rear or should I stick with a standard? these are used for racing only.
Thanks for your reaching out!If you ride technically in XC race, we really recommend rear standard version. It will be more durable and safe for you. You can order front flyweight and rear standard for your 29er XC wheelset, but light hubs. It will make the wheelset weight light.
Do you have spoke count recommendations for rider weights for your road rims?
The stiffness of different rims are different, could you pls let me know your weight/riding style and your ideal road bike rim 700C? I could recommend a suitable spoke count for your ref.
looking to build a wheel set with existing dt240s I am looking at your AR28 rim. I am trying to determine the spoke length with only calculators.
Since you offer this option, what spoke length are you using please?
We can do the spoke calculation for you if you like. Could you please provide the details of your wheel build? And, which DT hub model that you use exactly?
Note that our ERD measurement is measured from the nipple bed on one side of the rim to the nipple bed on the other.
I'd like to build a wheelset using your tubeless rims, without rim bed nipple holes. I use 2mm Sapim CX-Ray spokes and brass nipples. Do you recommend a magnetic nipple insert for assembling the nipples? Does one of the Fulcrum Racing tools fit 2mm nipples?
This will be my second Light Bicycle wheel build this year. Excellent product!
We published a little article around tubeless rims 700c . Also mention the wheel building tips, you can check it out at https://www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/TUBELESS-READY-OR-TUBELESS-RIMS--WHAT-S-BEST-FOR-ME.html .
And, you are right, you should use magnetic nipples.
Please let me know exactly what specs you looking for buying, Do you like 700C disc or non disc rims?
I just purchased a pair of WR50 rims and noticed you have an ERD that does not consider the nipple. I plan to use the standard Sapim 16mm nipples you use and recommend. What is the proper adjustment to the ERD with that rim and nipple combination that I would put into a spoke length calculator?
Nipples with standard heads - Most online calculators can use our standard ERD dimension to get an accurate spoke length. Round up to the nearest mm when the calculator gives you the spoke length.
Nipples with raised heads (Hex, Squorx, Double Square etc.) - Add 2mm to our ERD dimension. Round up to the nearest mm when the calculator gives you the spoke length.
Or you can let us know your hubs specs on WR50 32mm wide wheelset, then we can get the spoke length accordingly for your reference.
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